Iceland

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Unlike any other holiday our trip to Iceland has deeply touched me to the bones. Actually it is one of the very few times, I really feel the need of conserving my thoughts, feelings and impressions of the past few days, to keep them from fading away.

When I read an article about exploring Iceland on a horseback, a few years ago, I was exited at once and begining of this year, I convinced Tanja to try riding Icelandic horses at one of my Professors’ stud.
So we went to try out our abilities and soon Sabine, our trainer, mentioned that she once did a trip with “Hesta Sports” in Iceland, which she truely recommended – for good reason as we found out! Though Tanja felt not too confident, we booked the only available trip which fit in our plans for this summer – the most demanding “Destination Wilderness“…

We limited our luggage to the least possible weight and volume and went off to Iceland on July 24th, spending one night close to Keflavik Intl. Airport in Hotel Berg, which turned out to be an excellent choice, since we arrived close after midnight and went to bed not more than half an hour later in a very private place with superb service. Next day we rent a car and started our way up north to Þingvellir, the famous gap, where you can “watch” two continents drifting apart and further up to Hotel Glymur. I have to confess that we were a little disappointed, due to our big expectations, that fed from the top rating at booking.com, nevertheless the rooms were fine and the food was excellent!

Sneafellsnes

Next day we went around Snæfellsnes and ended up in Hotel Budir, to get us in the mood for “the flush of silence” which expected us for the coming days. Just by accident we made the acquaintance of a diveguide and his lovely wife, both from UK and now working at Þingvellir. Of course we took the chance of exchanging diving-stories and killed half a bottle of scotch – according to Tanjas view – I just would like to mention, that Bunnahabhain “Darach Ur” is a very fine stuff!

Hesta Sport Cottages

Sunday we finally made it to Sauðárkrókur and met our first “hotpot” at Hesta Sport basecamp, together with our companions for the next 7 days. Actually an Islandic hotpot is quiet different from the “Onsens” we experienced in Japan last year, the share of sulfur is way minor, so it stinks far less. Whenever you get the chance, make sure that you don’t miss it! Anyhow we got a little scared while meeting our co-riders, since we found out, that we were the least experienced riders of all. Every single of them had at least a partnership on one horse at home, and four of them came already for the third time to Hesta Sports… So we spend a little restless night, being excited by our upcoming adventure.

10:00 am early monday morning – calculated in Islandic time – we were taken to meet our horses and rode on to group up with the rest of the herd. In the end of the day, we had a bunch of more than 60 horses in total and were 12 riders to keep them as a herd on and along the road for 20 km as “warm up”. Tuesday then started as foggy day and didn’t improve at all when we left for the highlands. Luckily we had no rain and were able to enjoy the slighly “spooky athmosphere” during the whole day. One might say that this was fortunate, just because there was no chance of getting distracted by the changing scenery and we had all concentration on the horses. At least Tanja and me were grateful for that.

Skiptabakkaskáli Hut

Actually it is hard to describe in German what I experienced during the following days, so I do even harder in English. Basically the wilderness is mindblowing. Have you ever heard “A horse with no name” by America? There is a certain truth in that song! The Icelandic highlands first look wasted like a crater on the moon, then offering glaciers at the horizon, spreading their ice-cold rivers, and all the time there is that vast wideness which seems to intend to suck you in.

The horses manage this terrain absolutely safe and secure, but you realize soon, that they are as uneasy in this surrounding as anyone else is. As I said before, I think that can only be experienced by oneself.

On day 5 of our tour we finally turned our back to Lambahraun lavafield and headed towards Laugafell, a beautiful place with hotpot and some civilisation-signs, since it was inhabited for centuries now, functioning as a safe harbour during the pest plague in the medieval and offering shelter for riders and hikers since the ninteensixties in our time. Somehow the weather seemed to support our

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descent, we left the highlands in slight snowfall, arriving at the hut at sunny skies with a stunning sundown. Still I find this hut is one of the most basic ones, for we had to share a single bedroom for all of us riders and the 6 staff. Nevertheless that was no real problem, just don’t forget your earplugs, whenever you should consider this tour. As well I would like to emphazise my gratefulness to Tryggvi, for supporting us with cooled beer in the hotpot! Luv you mate! Once again we have been lucky next day. Throughout our ongoing descent the sun was shining all day long and as the path grew steeper and the valley narrower, we were able to enjoy Iceland at its best. Actually the longest riding day (app. 50km) was not less than perfect. After the steep climb in the first part, we changed horses and could go fast toelt all the way down towards the exit of the valley, having the river to the left, flat, soft grounds in front and bushes and forrest to the right, it was more like flying through the nature, being perfectly confident with the horses meanwhile. Simply a stunning experience! Again I saw one of the finest sunsets in my life, while enjoying grilled lamb with red cabbage, wine and brennivin!

Unfortunately the tour came slowly to an end now, but our last riding day welcomed us with the same weather as the day before, we were free to choose the horses we liked best and so we simply enjoyed these last 30km to the corral of Kelduland! Have a look at the Gallery below, if you like to see the rest of the trip, as well as the tour back to Kevlavik!

Iceland Panorama

My warmest regards to Katja for her brilliant support during the booking and her warm welcome, special thanks to Tryggvi and Miki for the support with the car and the excellent food under extremely demanding conditions, and of course to our guides Magnus, Kati, Bjarni and Eymundur!